Neighborhood Foodie

I love small neighborhoods with interesting histories, and I love great food!

Archive for March, 2010

Rick Bayless is a super nice dude.

A couple weeks ago, I got a text message from Yolanda’s mom that said “I just signed us up for the Rick Bayless class at Macy’s.” I said “Yay!” Rick Bayless, in case you don’t know, is the pale white guy who cooks super authentic Mexican food on PBS, in Chicago at his restaurant, and on Top Chef Masters last year, which he won. I remember seeing his cooking show when I was really really little (we’re talking about 3 or 4 here) and thinking my Uncle Tom was on the tv. There are some glasses/mustache similarities. Even though I’ve known of him for probably longer than any other chef, I didn’t know much ABOUT him until last year. Rick’s PR guy must just hug him and cry tears of happiness every time he’s seen him since Top Chef, because there’s no way that whole thing could have gone better. While some of the other chefs who participated wound up letting their egos show *cough Michael Ciriello cough* and letting their amiable TV personalities slip a little, Rick was just plain nice the whole way through. And not in a “I wish this guy would just drop the act already” kind of way, but in a “Wow, that dude actually is really super nice and I think I like him a lot more now” kind of way. Someone tonight asked how the show had affected his career, and he said that while his restaurant had always been successful, they went from taking reservations from one month out to about three months out. He also mentioned that he personally generally doesn’t make reservations more than about ten minutes out.

I have Mama Brown to thank for getting signed up for the class in the first place, but I have Yolanda to thank for getting our butts in the seats. She earned more points towards her “Best Roommate and Daughter Ever” award by hanging around at Macy’s after she got off work around 3:30 for the sole purpose of making sure we got good seats. I’d say numbers one, two and three isn’t doing too badly! When she texted me the good news, she also said “And there’s a surprise!” I love Yolanda surprises, they’re always awesome. This one was no exception.

Check it out! (I’m Jeorge, by the way) She got me a cookbook to have signed after the class, and a Macy’s gift card to buy something fun with! I’m not kidding, she’s the best roommate ever. There’s an excellent reason we’ve lived together for over a decade in one place or another, and it’s cuz she’s awesome. In case you’re curious, I bought a crock pot, a microplane, and a nifty silver serving tray thingee. All sure to be regular supporting cast to this here blog.
Everyone filed in and sat down, and Rick talked about his background, his family, his love of Mexico and all of it’s incredibly complex and vastly under-appreciated cuisines, his restaurants, and Top Chef.
The classes at Macys aren’t hands on, but you do get to taste little mini plates of whatever the guest chef is cooking. (Nancy Silverton’s butterscotch budino was stupidly good) Tonight, Chef Bayless made Roasted Tomato Shrimp Cocktail, a Grilled Skirt Steak Torta, and a Red Hot Margarita.
 
(Hey look a shrimp next to Rick Bayless’ face!)
(This was our little open faced tasting version)
(This is the real thing)
(He laughed about these, because the pretty red color is 100% artificial – it’s literally Red Hot candies melted down into a syrup with water, and made into a margarita)
He spent a good amount of time after the demo taking questions, some of which were well thought out and some of which were completely assanine. Why do I need to know what Rick Bayless’ opinion of Gordon Ramsey is? Can we please talk some more about where you can buy wild caught seasonal Mexican shrimp?
The line to get books signed afterwards was ridiculously long, so that’s when I did my crockpot shopping. I can’t believe I’ve never bought one before this, and I can’t wait to use it! The one I nabbed was on sale, and came with a little bonus baby crockpot for keeping smaller portions of things like dip warm. Fun.
Once the line had gotten down to just a few people, we jumped on the autograph band wagon.
Yolanda’s mom had gone before me, and she took this opportunity to announce “Jennifer won Rachael Ray’s Burger Bash contest, you know!” The way he said “Oh, well that’s nice,” made me say “That’s maybe not something we should be bragging about to a formally trained chef.” There had been some discussion earlier of the Food Network, and let’s just say “lowest common denominator” is a term that was bandied about. So while I may not have made an overly impressive impression, that’s perfectly ok. There are few things in life I enjoy more than finding out sometimes people really are as genuine and nice as they appear to be, and tonight was a good one.
(That’s the dog showing me how much of a mess he can make with all his toys, wondering why I’m taking a picture of a book. And also my shoe. And no, I have no idea what he wrote either.)
PS: I’ll scan and post the recipes from tonight really soon, I promise!
posted by jeorge in Rick Bayless and have Comments (2)

Accidentally almost vegetarian weekend

It occured to me that in re-reading that “It has been a day of perfect food” post from a while back, there was nearly no meat in it. Just the bit of bacon wrapped around those bleu cheese stuffed dates. Don’t get me wrong, I definitely appreciate a perfectly seared medium rare steak, a juicy pork loin, a crispy skinned chicken thigh, and I’ve never met a seafood I didn’t like. But I frequently go a few days without including any meat in my diet before I really take notice of it’s absence.This past weekend was one such occasion, when the only non-veggie I ate was the shrimp in the shrimp & grits that Yo’s mom made for dinner on Saturday. What else was I nibbling on? Some of it was from the stash that I was gifted with from Specialty Produce, namely the heirloom tomatoes and the Baby Anzious Artichokes. The larger tomatoes I turned into one of my all time favorite “sandwiches” if you can call it that. It’s really just a chunk of lightly toasted French bread, slathered with a little mayonnaise (homemade if you’ve got it lying around), topped with thick slices of tomato, drizzled sparingly with olive oil and sprinkled with salt & pepper. I’ll be honest, I was so excited about their return to my repetoir after months out of season that I just plain forgot to take a picture. I thought about sprinkling everything with a little parmesan and popping it under the broiler for a minute, but in the end raw, juicy and fresh won out. The smaller black cherry tomatoes were just too perfectly sweet and delicious all on their own to mess with very much. I just cut them in half, tossed them with a little olive oil, salt & pepper, and ate them right out of the bowl.

We had some serious fun when it came to the artichokes. The Anzious ones are gorgeous, all purple and green – and tiny. They’re a little bigger than a golf ball, and so tender that once cooked you can eat the whole darn thing.
I found a recipe on the Specialty Produce website that described a deep frying method, in which the tops of the artichokes are trimmed off, then the whole thing is gently opened up like a flower before being dropped in the hot oil. It also called for the veggies to be blanched first in 300 degree oil, drained and then re-fried at 360 to get super crisp leaves and a perfectly tender heart. About 2 -2 1/2 minutes at each temp should do the trick. Just a little sprinkle of salt a pinch of pepper, and voila! Crispy, crunchy, nutty, artichokie goodness.
I’d used up some nearly stale bread with a big batch of French toast on Saturday morning, planning on popping the leftovers in the toaster oven for breakfast during the week. Problem is, I’m not huge on syrup as a pancake/French toast/waffle topper. So later that afternoon when I discovered that Henry’s had pints of big juicy blackberries on sale for less than a buck, I nabbed three. I’d planned on just eating them plain, tossed with little plain yogurt and honey and my leftover toast, but when I was putting away other groceries the bag of cinnamon sticks I bought for no particular reason fell out. While I was putting it back, I knocked the bag of candied ginger out of place. Then one of the meyer lemons on the counter caught my eye – which in turn reminded me of the heirloom oranges on the kitchen table. Next thing I knew, all three pints of berries had been dumped in a sauce pan, tossed with 1/2 a cup of sugar, the juice & zest of the lemon, the juice of an orange, a cinnamon stick, four chunks of candied ginger, a sprinkling of nutmeg, and a shot of Jameson whiskey I happened upon in the freezer. I topped it all off with just a little water, and set it to simmering. I let it go for about 45 minutes on low, then stirred in a little corn starch to thicken everything up. So far I’ve used it on it’s originally intended French toast, chocolate ice cream, and steel cut oatmeal. I’ll probably go back to Henry’s and buy a bunch more berries for freezing tomorrow, so this magical little concoction can be a part of my life long after their peak season.
posted by jeorge in FMB,artichoke,black berry,tomato and have No Comments

Super legit lasagna

It occured to me a few weeks ago that even though I’ve known him for over a year, I’d never cooked for the boy! Ridiculous, I know. I’d decided the day before I wanted to make lasagna, so I made some ricotta cheese. This is an incredibly simple endeavor, just heat some milk and salt until it’s not quite boiling, add some acid (I’ve used lemon juice and white vinegar), and watch the magic happen. Almost instantly the whey separates out, and you just scoop out your freshly made ricotta. I drain mine for a few minutes in a paper towel lined collandar, and then it’ll keep in the fridge for a few days covered in a bowl. I made the cheese before I chose a lasagna recipe, and then I wound up making one that didn’t actually call for it. Details, right? It was a Mario Batali recipe, and that guy does not mess around. It was a pork & veal ragu, bechamel sauce (one down on my reso-maybes list!), parmesan, the works. It also called for ground pancetta, which I don’t have the slightest clue where to even look for. I added a little extra salt to the ragu, and added some mozzarella and ricotta to the equation. It might not have been completely true to the original, but it was incredibly decadent and delicious. I ate one portion, the boy ate three. He’s also been at the gym more often the last couple of weeks, which may or may not be coincidental. I took the leftovers to work the next day, and they were gone by 9:30am. Gotta love those Rebels, they don’t discriminate when it comes to food! If lasagna’s what’s for breakfast, well then that’s what they’ll eat.

Home-made Ricotta
by Grace Pilato
Yield: 4 cups

Preparation Time: 45 minutes

Ingredients:

1 gallon whole pasteurized milk

1/3 cup plus 1 teaspoon distilled white vinegar

1/4 teaspoon salt (more if you want a saltier taste and if you are not going to use it for desserts)

Procedure:

Rinse the inside of the pot you intend to use with cold water (this helps prevent the milk from scorching). Place 1 gallon milk in large, heavy non-reactive pot on medium heat. Add salt and stir briefly. Allow milk to heat up slowly, stirring occasionally. Soon you will notice steam start to form above the surface and tiny bubbles appearing on the milk. You want it to reach 180-185 degrees, near scalding temperature, just before it comes to a boil. Check the temperature with your thermometer.

When it reaches the correct temperature, take the pot off the burner, add the vinegar and stir gently for only one minute. Add salt. You will notice curds forming immediately. Cover with a dry clean dish towel and allow the mixture to sit undisturbed for a couple of hours. You can also begin preparing your ricotta in the morning before going to work and let it sit until you come home.

When the ricotta has rested for 2 hours or more, take a piece of cheesecloth, dampen it and place it inside a colander. With a slotted spoon, ladle out the ricotta into the prepared colander. Place the colander with ricotta inside of a larger pan so it can drain freely. Let it drain for two hours or so depending on how creamy or dry you want your cheese to be.

Lift the cheesecloth up by the four corners and twist gently. If the liquid runs clear, squeeze a little more. If the liquid runs milky, there is no more need to squeeze. Place in a tight sealed container. Refrigerate. It will keep for up to 7 days. Ricotta does not freeze well.

Lasagna Bolognese
adapted from Mario Batali

Ingredients

Ragù:
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium onions, finely chopped
1 carrot, finely chopped
4 stalks celery, finely chopped
5 cloves garlic, sliced
1 pound veal, ground
1 pound pork, ground
4 ounces pancetta, ground (yeah, I definitely don’t know where to buy this)
1 8-ounce can tomato paste
1 cup milk
1/2 cup white wine
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Béchamel:
5 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4 cup flour
3 cups milk
2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Lasagna:
3/4 to 1 pound fresh pasta sheets, about 7 by 4 inches, or dried lasagne noodles blanched for 6 minutes and refreshed (I used home style flat sheet noodles, a no-cook version)
1 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (way too poor for this stuff – my parmesan was freshly grated, but not of the Reggiano variety. I also added grated mozzarella and ricotta)
Oil for brushing

Cooking Instructions

Ragù: In a large heavy-bottom saucepan, heat olive oil. Add onion, carrot, celery, and garlic, and sweat over medium heat for about 5 minutes, until vegetables are translucent. Add veal, pork, and pancetta to the vegetables, and brown over high heat, stirring to keep the meat from sticking together. Add the tomato paste, milk, wine, thyme, and 1 cup water, and simmer over medium-low heat for 1 to 11/2 hours (if the ragù becomes too thick, add a little more water). Season to taste with salt and pepper, and remove from heat.

Béchamel: Melt the butter in a medium saucepan, add the flour, and whisk until smooth. Cook over medium heat, stirring regularly, until the mixture turns golden brown, about 6 to 7 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat the milk in a separate pan until it is just about to boil. Add the milk to the butter mixture, 1 cup at a time, whisking continuously until the sauce is very smooth. Bring to a boil and cook for 30 seconds longer. Remove from the heat and season with salt and nutmeg.

Assembly: Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Brush a 9-by-13-inch glass baking dish with melted butter or oil, and layer in the following order from the bottom: ragù, pasta, béchamel, and grated cheese (saving about 1 cup béchamel for last topping), making 3 to 4 layers of pasta, finishing with ragù, béchamel, and 1/4 cup of the Parmigiano-Reggiano sprinkled over the top. Bake in the oven for 45 minutes, until the top is golden brown and the casserole is bubbling. Remove from the oven, allow to cool for 20 minutes, slice, and serve.

posted by jeorge in lasagna and have Comment (1)